Thursday, February 24, 2011

Cartagena," The Mother City", " The Fort of the Kingdom"

HOT
I am so very hot.This city is magnetizing as today,the first in many I have remained aboard to tidy,meditate,write. The kids and Jay are in the salt mines,at task with the finale of courses at the air-conditioned wifi cafe.David is out there,checking of boat tasks on his list.David has really reached his stride,getting a little closer in his relationship with Rhythm and her many systems.
we often compare our boat,it's set up design,our way of living within it.We then remind ourselves,many of the cruisers,or,"yachties" that we've met have years of experience and "fiddle faddle "( Trudeau,1970)
We have been here for a week and the city,the promised,"world away " we have been sailing towards,has not disappointed. This is COLUMBIA,I keep having to remind myself. Architecturally alluring,her spirit is dense,rich with life;people living with deep cultural connections and a land seductive in natural resources. To walk into Centro,the old part of the city, within the infamous walls,is infatuating.Every thing,a chair outside a doorway,the hardware and trim and Spanish details is a photo opportunity. I am personally reminded of San Miguel ,Mexico.Each doorway a fortress, a cosmos within. Hustle , bustle ,modern shops and elementary sales :street level coffee,fruit,inexplicable fried treats,sombreros,woven bracelets and bags.Little English.A lot of curiosity.

Sent from my iPad

Loss

This morning we talked about loss; Jay lost his favorite shirt and one of his own brand: his Fizikel T shirt. I lost my very best blog EVER.Joey has misplaced his wallet .We've long since lost the use of our phones for regular use and all ipods but one are mere shells of a cute and slick design.
Loss and what "person ,place or thing" can we live without? If I made a list a year ago it would look like this; I CAN'T live without:my family,my dog,my girlfriends ,my bike,my running shoes ,my phone,my iPod,my computer,my yoga stuff,my third floor room.
Then,knowing we could only take the lightest of gear my 'let go' list looked like this, I can't live without: my family,at least 3 of them, bathing suits,sunscreen and sunglasses,my iPad,my yoga stuff,iPod,10 lb weights,minimal clothing and shoes for all weather,toiletries,fruit and vegetables,A tutor for the kids,Jay!
Six months from now?
Loss feels like a violation,it feels like an assault,you feel like a helpless victim; out of control.
You get angry,you feel guilty that this,"thing" can cause you to react with such passion ,you want someone to help,tell you what to do,make it better,give you a big hug with one arm and then,with the other,produce a wrapped package with a big red bow that contains the item you have lost,had stolen,got wet .
Life is a balance and therefore,we must have some basic equality on the scales or I think we would feel perpetually gimpy.
It's hard to live in such a all space with others and know certainly or not if your personal needs,things you can't live without, are self centered or just about self care and self growth.

Water,I forgot to mention water,it is damn hot,sizzling here in the noon time harbor of Cartagena,I've just put ice cubes in my water,the sea water all around is despicably filthy and our stores of fresh water is dear,therefore ,I can live with just sitting in a bather,in the shade of our cockpit drinking water .
I look forward to natures clean beauty of the San Blas Islands coming up next.

Sent from my iPad

Friday, February 18, 2011

Sweet Spot,Passage with Waxing Moon

During a passage at night,I have often had a very interrupted sleep,fearful that I'll sleep to soundly to be woken for my shift.When it is my turn,I stumble -body often gets slammed up against a wall,all mussed up and groggy, I put on the kettle and I gather something warm for the sweet rush of night sea wind,head lamp,glasses,book and iPod -if it's working,which it ain't...I just loved hearing a miriad of podcasts,a voice to accompany and to stimulate me into wakeful alertness. So ,settle with a mug of hot chocolate,up on the white vinyl seat at the helm.Above is a white hard top,but for a square patch just over your head,there it is blue canvas and now,in the balmy south,it is gone ;just sky with flaps of sail and boom and moon and stars white on black. what a marvelous feel ing of freedom,peace,solitude. but for me,I run a narrative ,it's that innate longing to share,express a very sweet experience. It's that," THIS IS IT!!! " Its that,come look come quick,you HAVE to see this,isn't it amazing,wondrous,the flying fish,caught mid flight like a badminton birdie on the bows trampoline,the moon,coming soon to full,who needs the headlamp,check out my shadow!That must be a planet,?,or is it a mast light,?,curious,attentive,responsive,responsible me! Look! In the water,phosphorescence !I sit now,cross legged,and ride this ocean like a meditating bronco rider.It's not so quiet,the sounds,this time,this shift,are comforting;rushing water,quirky groans below,wind -strong and warm against your skin like a loving touch. That's sweet.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Bonaire Birthday and a Columbian Coffee

MMMM,I just had to mention the coffee I just got served to me,in A ciber cafe,in Cartagena ,Columbia,it delivers,however,yesterday I tried the chocolate,doesn't hold a candle to Grenadas organic mastery.
Already a world away,Bonaire a beautiful island on the north coast of Venezuela is not to ever be forgotten. We celebrated Davids birthday and came away with a beat up windsurfer and fantastic memories. We arrived on a Friday,a very party night in a very euro vibed town .Jay went out,came back a long time later,a kick- start for the spanish worlds ahead.
We were moored,as the reef is delicate and recently protected right near town so for me, the pulse of the tunes entered from the water into the hull and vibed my bunk , it too swam through my port window and gave me a bad case of FOMO( fear of missing out) It had the feel of a cottage vacation spot,however,giant cruise ships brought Dutch tourists not camp canoe trippers
WE utilized a new gelato cafe,LIlys, with free Internet for the kids and Jay to spool off some school.There ,I met a woman and her two gorgeous boys,with Madonna blond hair and those attractive mellifluous accents. She was so cool,blond dreads ,living with Husband practicing perm-farming.A term I'd never known.They were waiting on deed to a farm in Equador,how amazing is that!? She gave me the information I was hunting for; where to take David for a romantic
nuit de n' infant terrible ..damn,I so so wish I'd switched to Spanish in grade 10...here,I can only mumble Buenos dais...ANYWAY...We got the scoop; Sorobon,Lac Bay.World class windsurfing,and a newly run resort with bungalows on the beach.Yes! details-Not so simple and I won't bore you but we did stay the night before David birthday,just the two of us.It was delicious,all the freedom,the land steady all night,the indulgence,the lofty selfishness,the National Geographic Scenery,the vibe of cool like whistler in the 80 s après - ski on the beach...
Morning: David rented 2 windsurfers , kids and Jay taxied over in the morning and we met them at JIve,the shop and restaurant.There,beautiful nubile humans,surf and sleep or sit dreamy eyed,bronzed and chill in the," why can't the world be this way?" serenity .
To describe this bay is hard without a photograph,it for me,was one of the times ,as I swam like a meditation in the clear white sanded water,a STOP RIGHT THERE moment.Growing up with a subscription to National Geographic,I can't help but to see the world through those glossy mesmerizing pages and to measure real sights in comparison . Not just the aesthetic but its ability to connect its natural essence to my own worn and slightly jaded ability to really feel alive and moved in the world. We have warned one another to beware of jaded jargon,like,"Ya, I saw the sunset yesterday",or,"Ya, Ive seen the bird,the mountain,the full moon and stars,the colored fish,birds, the land -ho,the new city on the horizon,..."
We are indeed,blessed. This world, ie the microcosm of my morning kayak- circumnavigation- is a blender of stench and lush and color and new city sights, culture and language ,very old and third world and bird species and flora ...world wide sailing vessels,navy ships painted ominous flat grey,loud choppers overhead -subtext of underworld; metaphor,juxtapose,happening!
Bonaire,yes,also a world class scuba diving mecca.Just before we sailed away, we had to have a last snorkel ,a swim off Klein Bonaire,a small island just behind our mooring, protecting us and surrounded by coral,a national park. J and O saw a turtle and we then,swam up to David who was doing donuts with Rhythm like a Dad waiting in the car as we had one last run.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

gypsy is in me

I think Im ready to go.
How can we leave this enchanted island with all the rain forests,coastal villages,beaches and jungles that have been described as Eden.With local people as human as anywhere,with all the kindness,graciousness,curiosities,and love. With also suffering sometimes personified in bad choices.A culture ,like so many,that cuts a deep pattern that is difficult to enlighten.Who are " we" to enlighten anyway? The very simple plan that we can all agree on is literacy and education for everyone.We have met some people here who really are " enlightening" in a very basic and heartfelt way. They are,Hands Across The Sea, a Dolphin 46 Catamaran like ours. Aboard,Harriet and T.L work through their own US not for profit organization that provides books for schools in the Caribbean .Through them we not only went on two stellar hikes but also met Alicia,who ,also American,is just finishing her two yr post here with the Peace Corp.She works with blind kids who can't make it to a school.
Inspiring and for them ,frustrating and rewarding.
How can we leave our precious new friends from Norway aboard,Sirius !? Mum Gertrude,daughter Ingaborg and son Thornstein We first met at The Hash.Dad Stein,we have just met upon his return from work in US. It is very hard. I say this life may be simpler but it is intense. At home we make friends more slowly and in chapters. Usually for life! Here we make fast friends and we are aghast to realize ,there may be a good chance we will never meet again!! It is like a microcosm ,I'm just hoping it won't mean we become small minded or shallow .Our intention is ,of course to never frame our space and be mindful of the big big big picture,take that lens up, up and out creating room to belittle the annoyances .
Gypsy- Yes, I feel it already. The desire to just GO!
To hoist the anchor,to adhere to our shifts.To have found this place where a routine is created by the skipper,no significance insinuated here...just the freedom that this timetable can offer.Freedom from too many options,we adore making friends and being social but that too can become a complex web of organizations.
This is the gypsy initiative ,without connections beyond the boat,one is actually more free to be connected to that vast largess that liberates us from our minds constant analysis.Simply,to be present with what is.
Yes yes I could pontificate on and on in debate around in circles.I'll leave that be.

Our hikes were. Insanely gorgeous,one a mountain called Mt Qua Qua on Wednesday,where Jay and Joey went native.....bare
foot....and got sensual , not together...with mud between toes. It was more of the same rain forest jungle mud and rain and green and an aroma -perfume in the air like heavens musk.
We then hiked down the road and onto another path through farmland,note : Grenada is The SPICE ISLAND with cocoa trees,sorrel plantes,nutmeg trees,orange trees...Did you know cinnamon is a tree and it is the bark of that tree that we know to become that comforting spice..
Then we found two of the seven sisters waterfalls with big pools to swim in.
The next hike was basically walking in an enchanted river upstream for about 3 hours with a guide,a stunning man,Wello,a local - authentic extreme . He brought a very long rope.He brought and used a very sharp and big machete.He cut fruit for us to eat. He took care of us. All wise and native and strong.
Today David had to go to court to testify about the theft of our dingy on Friday.Olivia just informed me that he won't be finished till 4pm!!! this is not good considering we were to leave tomorrow morning and he still has the water maker to perfect/fix..
It was a very big Bond like drama.He and Joey and Olivia all accompanied the Coast Guard in a
high speed chase in pursuit of the local boys,one in our dingy and two others in a previously
stolen dingy ( I think)The coast guards were all testosterone and the poor dumb perp.ended up crashed under the big powerful twin 350 hsp(?) Sinking our engine and injuring the thief .Olivia and Joey felt compassion for the boy who is still " not moving in hospital
Our next destination is Bonnaire,one of the Dutch Islands of "The ABCs" which is on the north west coast of Venezuela. We would have stopped in at some of the more remote islands of Venezuela ,however,word is to stay clear of the piracy that currently abounds.
I'm not scared ,but I did think to clears a space in my closet for Olivia in case....