Maumere, Flores. Indonesia

Fwd: Savu

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: David Hill <dhill057@gmail.com>
Date: August 23, 2012 10:47:18 PM GMT+08:00
To: peghill6@gmail.com
Subject: Savu

Sent from my iPod

Fwd: Vanuatu

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: Peggy Hill <peghill6@gmail.com>
Date: July 3, 2012 1:33:11 PM GMT+08:00
To: Peggy Hill <peghill6@gmail.com>
Subject: Vanuatu

Hi and sorry its been so long
Ive booked Davids computer for a few hours as my handy dandy portable
and cute ipad has frozen.
We are on the island of Effete on Vanuatu. We arrived in New Caledonia
after 6?days of sailing from Opua ,NewZealand .We had a big
celebration dinner featuring the mahi mahi caught on passage by John ,
bread baked by Kelly with cousin  Vics sour dough starter she brought
us in NZ , bubbly and real lettuce in a succulent fresh salad.
We left that town Noumea after two red  tape days checking in and
checking out with customs,immigration and some frustrations attempting
to get our Indonesian visa . We anchored two more nights off coast of
same island hoping to catch a nice wind to the south island of Ilse
des Pines...  The second anchorage,in a deep Bay with nothing much but
a visible road and some abandoned metal somethings protected by a big
reef.was our jump off .John and Kelly ventured in for a hike and I
wanted to break into the realm of the ocean medium...wash ,check the
anchor,etc.It was cold,I was surprised and I was squeamish,so I put on
a wet suit. I went in,spent no more than 30 min.,it was fine. When K
and J returned,however,the local"jacq-Paul" said Oh,NO! Do not swim
here-anywhere but here,there are many sharks here,feeding on the baby
turtles...oh well,sometimes less info is more....We never made it to
the proverbial paradise of Ilse d Pines-wind harsh on the nose so we
continued on to Vanuatu,still a bumpy ride...missing also our next
destination of the most southern island of Vanuatu. We headed directly
to Effete....
Here,we are doing some provisioning both fresh market and supermarket
goods.Fuel,water ,laundry and we are informing customs of the islands
in the Van. group  we are about to go off and visit.
Olivia is safely "aboard: for her 2 week break from school. We will
sail up to the largest island north of here ,Santo,where Olivia has a
flight out ,she connects in Port Vila before leaving for Auckland.She
has already made friends and is off somewhere now with them.David met
the Dad,"Captain Rick"- a salty dog now a land lubber after some years
at sea-telling gruesome stories of cannibals in papa N Guinea,OK ..Ill
tell you one true tale,however 20 years old ;they used to tourniquet
the human (preferably white tasty victims) around the arms and legs
before they sliced the limbs and passed them around to the salivating
natives to be gnawed raw-God knows why?? At least boil them like the
cauldrons in the bugs bunny cartoons??

In Mele Bay we finally could swim,John caught,spear fished  a hearty
grouper,we saw a fire ceremony at The Beach Bar,In the mornings we
hear the children singing before school starts.We snorkel beside Hide
away Island and I spotted a sea turtle. We celebrated Kellys 23rd
Birthday on Sunday with a bountiful beautiful breakfast made by John
in two parts,first eggs and presents and second a cake John baked with
local passionfruit and banana ,topped with whipped cream. We packed a
picnic lunch and headed out to the pride of Effete,The cascade
waterfalls. It totally delivered,so intensely beautiful,nestled in the
jungle,the water a pale blue,temperate and fresh.The water springs
from the ground up above the bottom pools,many pools,big enough fro
sliding and swimming.We loved it. David and I ate while Olivia John
and Kelly walked up.We took our turn when they returned and I filmed
avidly as we walked.Such a paradise  .When we returned.The place was
empty,just employees cleaning.I assumed the three had walked back
knowing that John was taking Kelly out to town for dinner.In fact
Olivia was there waiting for us but had moved to another table and we
missed her.We were all the way back,along the road,along the
beach,enjoying the chill of the later afternoon stroll. When J and K
zoomed up in the dingy we were all awakened.  D and I quickly changed
into dry cloths and actually started running back on the road as none
of the ubiquitous buses were around....as we got to the round- about I
crossed the road right in front of a truck with the back loaded with
guys wearing soccer shirts(most of the men/boys do) The driver
exclaimed,"we have your daughter!" Drama halt...I never let my mind
take me down that worry road but despite,I realized  I had some
adrenaline coursing through....

Next day-jungle cook out. We had met Robert on the road to the
waterfall standing with a new soccer ball he was pumping. We chatted
and he proposed his island invitation;to follow him up into the jungle
and cook a feast Vanuatu style. All we needed to provide was the
protein,chicken?fish ?meat? We brought Johns spear-fished grouper
awaiting consumption in steaks in our fridge.   That night,much" white
man" narrative proceeded this agreement,for we did accept. We talked
about the safety of the fish,we bantered about the cleanliness of the
whole mysterious recipe and hand and health of our dear
guide,including his bad case of weeping conjunctivitis  .We thought
about his expectations ;were they monetary ? What could we offer?We
are all out of Canadian Maple syrup or any Mickey's of rum...etc,
infact all I could think of to spare was a good NZ chocolate bar... We
decided to relax,bring the fish and 6 cold beer in our cooler and to
loosen up....
The day was so perfect. It was a parable . We were late- Robert was at
home ,within the shanty town like village,surrounded by his wife her
Ma, scrawny dawgs and motley kids. All you need is a camera and you
are the pied piper...After some cute kid shots and happy smiley hand
shakes,we took back to the road and Robert ,like a chief had two boys
at his side with the knives they carry everywhere ,boys have
knives,machetes . All villagers," the  living" ,as they are mostly
unemployed,worship one thing,The Sun. We traversed the soccer field
beside the cemetery ,sacred land . All land -lush ...on to a path that
paralleled the more touristy waterfall ascent through he jungle.
Robert preformed,we felt like children as he showed us all the tricks
and costumes and musical instruments that all the ferns and leaves can
magically morph and amuse. Up and up we walked and gathered some food
for our feast;a green per shaped vegetable, "island cabbage"that
looked like random dark green leaves that Id seen in the market
selling in mammoth bunches...robert had brought with him a small sac
that contained salt from his kitchen and two water bottles,some
plantain,banana,tumeric in its root form,two cloves of garlic,an
onion.  We passed men tending very basic garden patches of
corn,papaya,banana.The only familiar fruit in season at this time is
banana,coconut ,grapefruit,pomelo and  papaya. Two fruits that
resemble apples AND a berry that looks like a fake raspberry-haven't
tried it yet
...reminds me-this is taking ages and Ive GOT to get up and off to my
list of duties!!!!!
  To continue:  We made it up to a beautiful clearing at the top
where we had a clear view of the bay where Rhythm rocked on her
anchorage and the reef , long beach and hide away island looked so
pretty.
We began to process the veggies by first cleaning our wear-Robert and
the boys gathered thick green bamboo stalks,coconuts for water,for
meat,firewood and big bright green leaves for
our cleaning.We set  leaves out ;water in one like a sink and a couple
to place the food.We peeled and cubed the food,the boys cut sections
of bamboo,for it was within these vessels that we were to stuff this
food and to steam over the open fire the ....Robert grated coconut,the
turmeric and created a cream squeezing the pulp into a coconut
shell,we dipped the food before we  stuffed it  into the pieces of
bambooo. We were presented with green coconut with straws made from
some plant,also cop sticks and coconut shells were our utensils . I
love it!
The meal,decanted from the burning hot stalks onto more clean big
green leaves was an exercise in practicing presence patience and
restraint,let me tell you....Oh,yes,I forgot there was also
banana/p;antain sliced,with the peel in a stalk and cooked like the
rest.It was so good,almost like a sweet squash. We ate with amused
hungry gratitude. A very wonderful experience and a first for us on
our travels so far.
I really must go. Ive not written much to many for so long. Blog
fizzled out without the help of my ipad notes..Our plans are to join
this rally,the," sailindonesia " rally,starting at the end of July. To
be in Thailand for Christmas..
I miss Philippa so much who is working in Miami this summer in her
field and spending time with Joey Sterns and his fab family-who I
haven't even met yet. I miss Jeremy so much working in Toronto,sailing
Flying Cloud and cottaging on Edge. Missing Joey,just starting his
grand finale of high school in T.O,having had a 5 week visit with
Magali of Monaco...I miss Ma and Pa, bro ( see you in NOVEMBER) and
sis(when and where!?),et al...all family,girlfriends and buddies so
much.
Hope the full moon is bright for you,summer is fun and restful,
Lots of Love
Peg

Fwd: Backstage at last!

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>
Date: August 23, 2012 3:24:52 PM GMT+08:00
Cc: peg  <peghill6@gmail.com>, Craig Brown <cbrown@tor.fasken.com>, anne  <aoh@rogers.com>, jenniferbrown  <brown_jennifer@rogers.com>, <VE3MZL@Winlink.org>, David  Hill <dhill057@gmail.com>, georgia  <grennick@airdberlis.com>, Jeremy  <hilljeremy8@gmail.com>, Joe  Aziz <joeaziz787@gmail.com>, joe bro  <joeaziz@dophes.com>, John Hill <jvhill@rogers.com>, Josef Kates <josefkates@gmail.com>, Leslie  <hobbsleslie@hotmail.com>, Margaret Hill <margaretgsmith@sympatico.ca>, Mary Fraleigh <mfraleigh5420@rogers.com>, Olivia Hill <olivia.katherine.hill@gmail.com>, pats  <paziz@rogers.blackberry.net>, peg  <peghill6@gmail.com>, philippa  <p.janehill@gmail.com>, Squeak  <antoinette.ridout@gmail.com>, Stephen Smith <stephensmith1@sympatico.ca>, Sue  Aziz <azizsue@gmail.com>, wendy  <wendylyons@hotmail.com>
Subject: Backstage at last!
Reply-To: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>

Same Bay Different Day,
Man oh man,David and I just returned from a shore barrage,a superlative  mob scene,....I can only imagine the feverish juiced up crush   that would have rocked like rolling stones velocity in  this wee village if the beautiful young blond Kelly and John had been with us.! Believe this;I had teen-aged boys wanting to have their picture taken with me!!!!! Thats about as close to a compliment as Ive had in a very long time..WE would have needed to be armed if Kelly or Olivia was with us,haha..
 I'm left with an odd mix of feelings. From the moment we waded our dingy in near the village at low tide,feet touching sand and my mind back in the lonely planet about what NOT to step on, we were greeted with meteoric celebrity .
Last night we talked as the sun set ,on the bow,drinking in the phenomenon of us being in this incredible place,How did we get here? The new waxing moon had appeared,already high and the shifting light revealed this shadowy dimension of topography,a depth of field,like a child's picture book, in differing shades of shadow;at the back-the volcano grand and proportioned,then the dry rolly  hills,and at the forefront, layer of green  palms before the black sand beach. To the west,the sounds of the bustle of village evening activity enfolded us closer.WE felt connected and cozy and very lucky.  We saw fires,big big bon fires aglow scattered about the surrounding hills like the aftermath of a bomb strike without the percussive fear.It was all very beautiful  .
   WE must explore!We don't need to have the rally to escort,to be our camp councilor! WE can forge forth-we want to hike,to climb!To let legs live land!Indonesian land!    We plotted our days adventure. We would get up early,pack lunch,bug spray,sunscreen,all that,etc. We would walk through town,and out,we would find a path! We are intrepid!   
To follow up for a second on the previous email ,sent yesterday. I must add that if our dugout man had not come and escorted us to this fine spot to anchor,we would indeed have found our way.We have done and we will do. And,for the perspective of team work,and to hasten to not belittle myself,I will describe the tables turned. I am referring to my intelligence in the navigation,computer- t-o life and compare ;in turn,an illustration of what I can do, what I do know.ie: Banana bread. I can make it. This morning while I made the rice salad ,David made the Banana Bread. He really doesn't know much in the arena of baking,like where the ingredients are and that one mixes dry ingreds together separately from the wet. So,there we go,we are both humbled in this ship of dissolving job delineations.

OK,so,back to the beach landing. It was crazy and amusing. Our first greeters became our posse,boys boys boys! Little boys initially,as they are the ones out hunting for creatures in the low tide,they are exuberant ,curious,bright and willing to help.We all had a big chain gang chant as about ten of them helped heave the dingy as far up the muddy sinky sand as possible.Then with my camera out and reminiscent of India,the rabble rousers flocked in front of the lens. Again,boys big screen hogs.  It was fun teasing them in English,as they mimicked my words.  To Mr Handsome -who vain ,was vainly in beg- to let his face be my perpetual muse,Id say,How will you ever find a wife worthy for your handsome face?? It went both ways,I can assure you, That line that boys in a herd can cross did not pass me,in group shots I had my butt slapped,they kept asking for handouts. One adult man,of dubious character,all friendly shook our hands,asked David if he wanted his small black plastic bracelet,David declined,he turned to me,I accepted,why not?Id come prepared with freebies.He pointed to a decoy bracelet I wore just in case,and I said,you want?Oh yes! The posse watching and noting and then,this is the shady bit,he gave me a weird hand shake where he pressed his one  finger into my palm with lot of pressure. It took a split second but it was creepy- and we were friends.I wondered whose side I was now on??   
We continued walking on the dirt road through the small town,scattered houses,a few stores with cigs and candy-on with a strong entourage  -the kids,still mostly boys with only a  few shy girls   hanging back. I tried to get pictures of the girls but those hoi polloi boys were in-my-face!...I found my true personality totally rising far above my kind nice Canadian- rep. persona. Which never lasts anyway...I was bossing the boys to," get back "! When they touched me,my back I turned and said Don't Touch Me! Its like the teacher who divides the class,some like ,some hate...I will never know    . Then we walked,still focused on our mission to walk hike,explore. We had some school stuff-yes,Olivia,many of your coloured pencils-to take to the school.We did manage to get them to take us to the 2 schools,however,and duh-there was no school today.   .haven't these Muslims heard that Ramadan is over?Apparently,they missed the sign of the moon as I read the new moon after the Islam calenders 9th month and 29/30 days is the completion ,however,last night at 4:30am the beautiful sounds of singing were audible within the acoustical Bay ..

We never found the teacher and left the stuff with a cluck of cheery woman.All the kids,about 30 surrounding the presentation.The Mum cave me a hand shake,then kisses on cheeks. I was really hoping to give the girls a parcel of cosmetics that Magali had given us over a year ago.I also have a ton of stickers from the dollar store at home.How?How can I give them out in that swarm?The worst part,and why I felt mixed was that the boys new I was "holding" and it bugged them .We bought them all gum(date on huge plastic container is passed due) and ,as we aborted our trek and waded back to our dingy-that we didn't trust to the rising tide despite a small anchor,the ingrates actually splashed me ,with guffaws and slaps to one another as they skittered helternskelter."Oh is that nice?!" ,Do you believe I scolded saying," Is that Indonesia to Canada?!" ,and I confess to doing what I soo hate,I shook my head! In any language that is sooo bad- teacher,grumpy retiree,ahhhhhhh But,seriously,brats!.....Harmless brats.
Back aboard,hot and a little disappointed,word is out and now,we greet on a regular shift the dugout brigade of floating askers. WE have a boat load of bananas now...goodie,more bread.No fish offered . Constant chants,"Mistah!Mistah!" I better go help...David says its like halloween,and its true he is shelling out! WE have given out much fishing line and hooks,Tshirts and our huge endless supply of wrteched gum.    In regard to the identity here,they are essentially sweet,poor in worldy goods,simple in the precious child like way of not being plagued,as we are in Toronto,of self conciousness,the ever present "Big Brother" judger always looking upon us.     The lonely planet says this is "the murder island",in reference to the warring tribes-naturally religion based;Christian vs Muslim. I didn't feel it but I did note the separation between the woman and girls and the men and then the boys.WE noticed some shiny moped driving slick young men who avoided eye  contact with us-again,same the world over. I rest my case,it always comes down to hormones;venus,Mars..its that simple..
New plan,to keep evolving,is that as I tred water,which keeps the other side of my brain alert and David will have his," get to know the boat from a male perspective "seminar.Yesterday ,we began with"The batteries" Amps,etc....Cant wait.If the trick or treaters beat it...Getting too agggressive..
Miss you,forward to anyone who can/wants  read it all,Love Peg

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Fwd: First Sublime anchorage

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>
Date: August 22, 2012 12:54:44 PM GMT+08:00
To: Joe  Aziz <joeaziz787@gmail.com>, Joe  Aziz <joeaziz787@gmail.com>, Jeremy <hilljeremy8@gmail.com>, joe bro  <joeaziz@dophes.com>, Joey Hill <joeyhill1@gmail.com>, Mary Fraleigh <mfraleigh5420@rogers.com>, Olivia Hill <olivia.katherine.hill@gmail.com>, philippa  <p.janehill@gmail.com>, Sue  Aziz <azizsue@gmail.com>, pats  <paziz@rogers.blackberry.net>, Josef Kates <josefkates@gmail.com>, peg  <peghill6@gmail.com>, anne  <aoh@rogers.com>, georgia  <grennick@airdberlis.com>, jenniferbrown  <brown_jennifer@rogers.com>, Leslie  <hobbsleslie@hotmail.com>, Squeak  <antoinette.ridout@gmail.com>
Cc: Margaret Hill <margaretgsmith@sympatico.ca>, Stephen Smith <stephensmith1@sympatico.ca>, John Hill <jvhill@rogers.com>
Subject: First Sublime anchorage
Reply-To: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>

Hi,we are out of internet range,so I thought Id let you know,our first Duo sailing passage is complete.
WE rest at ancor  ;very still very serene  near the remote village of Savu on the island of Andonara ,which is just beside Flores,which is east of Bali..  WE expected to see at least one other yaucht from the rally,as we move towards catching up to them,but we were the only big shiney vessel around. .Its taken us ages to get it all strait;where we are going..A fellow sailor printed out the Pilot for PNG and SE Asia and his hard drive of Lonley Planet info.             Its daunting,no,challenging  for David ,daunting is for me..David is  used to having a rt hand person as second mate ,being first,Joey,Olivia,Eli,or John ,Kelly - never me- who feeds him information from grib files (current weather updates) or the GPS. Yesterday when we got here, and ready to settle ,after 24 hours of sailing(2 nite shifts,me from 8pm-midnight,D from 12 to 6am!-he was watching a movie and let me sleep)  He was  tense and uptight as the light is waning and he wants me to drive but im not doing it with the reflexes of an olympic volley ball playe  r(im actually doing just fine with only one engine on,btw)  and then later,on second try to find a hold in this either deep or coral head ridden bottom,Im up on the roof looking at the bottom,he at the wheel when he shouts for me to go and look on the computor to see where the openCPN,which is electronic charts, Im actually asking him how to even explain what they are as I write...!(The charts show the most acurate topography,depth,contour lines..).I was supposed to match what I saw in real life to what I saw on the computer screen. This,I told him was not going to happen,just then a guardian angel appeared ,a man in a dug out,he motioned with his hand in  a circular wave like a crawl stroke towards the palm tree lined beach. We followed,us in our elephantine hotshot catamaran. I felt audacius,brazen in my bathingsuit,towering over him like a superior race.I hate that and in truth,I was admiring his hotshot J-stroke and the way he  rhythmically kicked the water inside his dugout to splash out. How kind of him,how sweet.I let out the anchor and all the 200 ft of chain for 60 feet depth.(-this too I had to concur with skipper just now(!) We were set,secure. Then I think,what can I give our guide? He is soon obviously expectant.He stands in the dug out,holding on to our hull. He has the ubiquitous dark sun sea lines face and a genuine smile. We have not had the experience of meeting these primitive village kind since the San Blas island back on the Carribbean side. WE gave him our smallest bill,50,000 rupia,which is 5 bucks .Can you imagine the wad I had to pay the gold shop for a 75$ ring??    However,he stayed,yup..hmm,OK He pointed to our fishing rod-AH!! Fishing line,Oh,sorry we dont have any spare,we have hooks! We gave him a hook,yes a hook,we travel light here ...we are seriously running out of extra anything...He took his thumb and finger and pulled at the middle of his T shirt,raising his eyebrows with happy hope. Yes! T shirts,I begged David to get rid of the nasty stained once white T he'd had on all day.He took it off and handed it to the man.Yuck,and... he waited.Then he left.Then another dug out brought 2 very expectant boys,how cute.They asked for books.Oh boy,it was becoming clear,the cruisers before us had spoiled these people! OK,am I jaded?Does this seem harsh? It is awkward,especially that we dont have much,we have some stickers and plastic braclets but darn if I could find them...The San Blas tribe had fish,Molas,beads to sell or trade. These guys keep coming with nothing. Yes,its apparent they really dont HAVE  anything. However,a coconut,a bunch of bananas is all we want. It keeps trade alive and dignity,right? This am a lovely young Dad and his son came out with a big long dug out ,empty but for a net.WE gave him a pair of boxer shorts and asked for fish?coconut? Im going to hunt down the stuff I do have now.
This sure is quiet! I think this is how everyone back home thinks we live.Quiet serene..We realised after K and J left that accept for the odd nite off the boat,we havent-despite what some may think-had a holiday with just us.Maybe this will help our ever challenged,but always committed  relationship. David and I are going to swim to the reef after lunch.How bizarre,we NEVER do that kind of thing together,2 years now! We hike but never swim together,a whole new chapter.
We are very excited to be here in Indonesia.We look forward to meeting up when or where with the boats of the rally,now dispersed about..
Highlights we missed in PNG-the worlds only poisinous bird"pitohui", largest butterfly,"Queen Alexandrea Birdwing" , Largest bat,the "Bismark flying fox ' Which,we didnt see alive BUT**** John ATE one for dinner whole, like a fish,head intact on the plate -... and the worlds  longest lizard Salvador monitor(4.75 metres )  Through the Torres strait we missed the largest meanest croc.,the 4.5/ 500 kg saltwater crocodile..which,I do believe is also present not too far from here and the regions share the longest snake,the reticulated python,often over 6.2m and the longest venomous snake,the cobra or hamadryad Here,the Indonesian giant stickinsect and also- worlds longest"The Flower Raffesia" at91cm,and it smells like rotting flesh What we will definatley see on the island of the name ;The Konodo Dragon,really a giant monitor lizard-google that dude.....Better go too much WORD for this satellite missive.
We will look forward to news from home,missing you all tons.We will be leaving tomorrow morning and may have internet.You can copy us on the ocens and gmail accounts-as long as you keep pictures and attachment s for gamil only.
Love Peg

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