San Blas Islands ...a while back

A beach

Nyc2010

Light through Rocks

Fwd: There is a light

Circa 2 weeks ago....Getting close To Labuan Bajo on Flores.

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: Peggy Hill <peghill6@gmail.com>
Date: September 4, 2012 12:13:46 PM GMT+08:00
To: Peggy Hill <peghill6@gmail.com>
Subject: There is a light

Just a line in a song I'm listening to while I try and meditate with the catalyst of a stunning Indonesian morning. I have to pay attention as we are coming to the way point where I must either teach myself how to use the curser on the computer which David " taught me" in3 min or less before he went below.
The morning brings a little wind,at 5.7 still not enough to raise a sail and cut the engine.
When I sit on these very moving mornings,on the bow,being as present as I can,taking in space with awareness,My mind with the dosage of endorphins wanders to all the many wonderful,funny,incredible places people nature that I've yet to write down.
This is our first passage with no kids,no crew,just the skipper and I. We left Kupang yesterday afternoon. I took the first watch till midnight,David let me sleep till5?6?!!! He was highly amused by some movie or TV show. Now,however,I hate to rise him but,alas,the brief lesson he left me with will not be enough for me to make the next waypoint by myself.
I'm very excited about Indonesia.There are so many islands and volcanos and giant lizards ,not to mention the rally full of boats and surely ,at least one new friend.
I'll cont later

Sent from my iPad

Maumere, Flores. Indonesia

Fwd: Savu

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: David Hill <dhill057@gmail.com>
Date: August 23, 2012 10:47:18 PM GMT+08:00
To: peghill6@gmail.com
Subject: Savu

Sent from my iPod

Fwd: Vanuatu

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: Peggy Hill <peghill6@gmail.com>
Date: July 3, 2012 1:33:11 PM GMT+08:00
To: Peggy Hill <peghill6@gmail.com>
Subject: Vanuatu

Hi and sorry its been so long
Ive booked Davids computer for a few hours as my handy dandy portable
and cute ipad has frozen.
We are on the island of Effete on Vanuatu. We arrived in New Caledonia
after 6?days of sailing from Opua ,NewZealand .We had a big
celebration dinner featuring the mahi mahi caught on passage by John ,
bread baked by Kelly with cousin  Vics sour dough starter she brought
us in NZ , bubbly and real lettuce in a succulent fresh salad.
We left that town Noumea after two red  tape days checking in and
checking out with customs,immigration and some frustrations attempting
to get our Indonesian visa . We anchored two more nights off coast of
same island hoping to catch a nice wind to the south island of Ilse
des Pines...  The second anchorage,in a deep Bay with nothing much but
a visible road and some abandoned metal somethings protected by a big
reef.was our jump off .John and Kelly ventured in for a hike and I
wanted to break into the realm of the ocean medium...wash ,check the
anchor,etc.It was cold,I was surprised and I was squeamish,so I put on
a wet suit. I went in,spent no more than 30 min.,it was fine. When K
and J returned,however,the local"jacq-Paul" said Oh,NO! Do not swim
here-anywhere but here,there are many sharks here,feeding on the baby
turtles...oh well,sometimes less info is more....We never made it to
the proverbial paradise of Ilse d Pines-wind harsh on the nose so we
continued on to Vanuatu,still a bumpy ride...missing also our next
destination of the most southern island of Vanuatu. We headed directly
to Effete....
Here,we are doing some provisioning both fresh market and supermarket
goods.Fuel,water ,laundry and we are informing customs of the islands
in the Van. group  we are about to go off and visit.
Olivia is safely "aboard: for her 2 week break from school. We will
sail up to the largest island north of here ,Santo,where Olivia has a
flight out ,she connects in Port Vila before leaving for Auckland.She
has already made friends and is off somewhere now with them.David met
the Dad,"Captain Rick"- a salty dog now a land lubber after some years
at sea-telling gruesome stories of cannibals in papa N Guinea,OK ..Ill
tell you one true tale,however 20 years old ;they used to tourniquet
the human (preferably white tasty victims) around the arms and legs
before they sliced the limbs and passed them around to the salivating
natives to be gnawed raw-God knows why?? At least boil them like the
cauldrons in the bugs bunny cartoons??

In Mele Bay we finally could swim,John caught,spear fished  a hearty
grouper,we saw a fire ceremony at The Beach Bar,In the mornings we
hear the children singing before school starts.We snorkel beside Hide
away Island and I spotted a sea turtle. We celebrated Kellys 23rd
Birthday on Sunday with a bountiful beautiful breakfast made by John
in two parts,first eggs and presents and second a cake John baked with
local passionfruit and banana ,topped with whipped cream. We packed a
picnic lunch and headed out to the pride of Effete,The cascade
waterfalls. It totally delivered,so intensely beautiful,nestled in the
jungle,the water a pale blue,temperate and fresh.The water springs
from the ground up above the bottom pools,many pools,big enough fro
sliding and swimming.We loved it. David and I ate while Olivia John
and Kelly walked up.We took our turn when they returned and I filmed
avidly as we walked.Such a paradise  .When we returned.The place was
empty,just employees cleaning.I assumed the three had walked back
knowing that John was taking Kelly out to town for dinner.In fact
Olivia was there waiting for us but had moved to another table and we
missed her.We were all the way back,along the road,along the
beach,enjoying the chill of the later afternoon stroll. When J and K
zoomed up in the dingy we were all awakened.  D and I quickly changed
into dry cloths and actually started running back on the road as none
of the ubiquitous buses were around....as we got to the round- about I
crossed the road right in front of a truck with the back loaded with
guys wearing soccer shirts(most of the men/boys do) The driver
exclaimed,"we have your daughter!" Drama halt...I never let my mind
take me down that worry road but despite,I realized  I had some
adrenaline coursing through....

Next day-jungle cook out. We had met Robert on the road to the
waterfall standing with a new soccer ball he was pumping. We chatted
and he proposed his island invitation;to follow him up into the jungle
and cook a feast Vanuatu style. All we needed to provide was the
protein,chicken?fish ?meat? We brought Johns spear-fished grouper
awaiting consumption in steaks in our fridge.   That night,much" white
man" narrative proceeded this agreement,for we did accept. We talked
about the safety of the fish,we bantered about the cleanliness of the
whole mysterious recipe and hand and health of our dear
guide,including his bad case of weeping conjunctivitis  .We thought
about his expectations ;were they monetary ? What could we offer?We
are all out of Canadian Maple syrup or any Mickey's of rum...etc,
infact all I could think of to spare was a good NZ chocolate bar... We
decided to relax,bring the fish and 6 cold beer in our cooler and to
loosen up....
The day was so perfect. It was a parable . We were late- Robert was at
home ,within the shanty town like village,surrounded by his wife her
Ma, scrawny dawgs and motley kids. All you need is a camera and you
are the pied piper...After some cute kid shots and happy smiley hand
shakes,we took back to the road and Robert ,like a chief had two boys
at his side with the knives they carry everywhere ,boys have
knives,machetes . All villagers," the  living" ,as they are mostly
unemployed,worship one thing,The Sun. We traversed the soccer field
beside the cemetery ,sacred land . All land -lush ...on to a path that
paralleled the more touristy waterfall ascent through he jungle.
Robert preformed,we felt like children as he showed us all the tricks
and costumes and musical instruments that all the ferns and leaves can
magically morph and amuse. Up and up we walked and gathered some food
for our feast;a green per shaped vegetable, "island cabbage"that
looked like random dark green leaves that Id seen in the market
selling in mammoth bunches...robert had brought with him a small sac
that contained salt from his kitchen and two water bottles,some
plantain,banana,tumeric in its root form,two cloves of garlic,an
onion.  We passed men tending very basic garden patches of
corn,papaya,banana.The only familiar fruit in season at this time is
banana,coconut ,grapefruit,pomelo and  papaya. Two fruits that
resemble apples AND a berry that looks like a fake raspberry-haven't
tried it yet
...reminds me-this is taking ages and Ive GOT to get up and off to my
list of duties!!!!!
  To continue:  We made it up to a beautiful clearing at the top
where we had a clear view of the bay where Rhythm rocked on her
anchorage and the reef , long beach and hide away island looked so
pretty.
We began to process the veggies by first cleaning our wear-Robert and
the boys gathered thick green bamboo stalks,coconuts for water,for
meat,firewood and big bright green leaves for
our cleaning.We set  leaves out ;water in one like a sink and a couple
to place the food.We peeled and cubed the food,the boys cut sections
of bamboo,for it was within these vessels that we were to stuff this
food and to steam over the open fire the ....Robert grated coconut,the
turmeric and created a cream squeezing the pulp into a coconut
shell,we dipped the food before we  stuffed it  into the pieces of
bambooo. We were presented with green coconut with straws made from
some plant,also cop sticks and coconut shells were our utensils . I
love it!
The meal,decanted from the burning hot stalks onto more clean big
green leaves was an exercise in practicing presence patience and
restraint,let me tell you....Oh,yes,I forgot there was also
banana/p;antain sliced,with the peel in a stalk and cooked like the
rest.It was so good,almost like a sweet squash. We ate with amused
hungry gratitude. A very wonderful experience and a first for us on
our travels so far.
I really must go. Ive not written much to many for so long. Blog
fizzled out without the help of my ipad notes..Our plans are to join
this rally,the," sailindonesia " rally,starting at the end of July. To
be in Thailand for Christmas..
I miss Philippa so much who is working in Miami this summer in her
field and spending time with Joey Sterns and his fab family-who I
haven't even met yet. I miss Jeremy so much working in Toronto,sailing
Flying Cloud and cottaging on Edge. Missing Joey,just starting his
grand finale of high school in T.O,having had a 5 week visit with
Magali of Monaco...I miss Ma and Pa, bro ( see you in NOVEMBER) and
sis(when and where!?),et al...all family,girlfriends and buddies so
much.
Hope the full moon is bright for you,summer is fun and restful,
Lots of Love
Peg

Fwd: Backstage at last!

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>
Date: August 23, 2012 3:24:52 PM GMT+08:00
Cc: peg  <peghill6@gmail.com>, Craig Brown <cbrown@tor.fasken.com>, anne  <aoh@rogers.com>, jenniferbrown  <brown_jennifer@rogers.com>, <VE3MZL@Winlink.org>, David  Hill <dhill057@gmail.com>, georgia  <grennick@airdberlis.com>, Jeremy  <hilljeremy8@gmail.com>, Joe  Aziz <joeaziz787@gmail.com>, joe bro  <joeaziz@dophes.com>, John Hill <jvhill@rogers.com>, Josef Kates <josefkates@gmail.com>, Leslie  <hobbsleslie@hotmail.com>, Margaret Hill <margaretgsmith@sympatico.ca>, Mary Fraleigh <mfraleigh5420@rogers.com>, Olivia Hill <olivia.katherine.hill@gmail.com>, pats  <paziz@rogers.blackberry.net>, peg  <peghill6@gmail.com>, philippa  <p.janehill@gmail.com>, Squeak  <antoinette.ridout@gmail.com>, Stephen Smith <stephensmith1@sympatico.ca>, Sue  Aziz <azizsue@gmail.com>, wendy  <wendylyons@hotmail.com>
Subject: Backstage at last!
Reply-To: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>

Same Bay Different Day,
Man oh man,David and I just returned from a shore barrage,a superlative  mob scene,....I can only imagine the feverish juiced up crush   that would have rocked like rolling stones velocity in  this wee village if the beautiful young blond Kelly and John had been with us.! Believe this;I had teen-aged boys wanting to have their picture taken with me!!!!! Thats about as close to a compliment as Ive had in a very long time..WE would have needed to be armed if Kelly or Olivia was with us,haha..
 I'm left with an odd mix of feelings. From the moment we waded our dingy in near the village at low tide,feet touching sand and my mind back in the lonely planet about what NOT to step on, we were greeted with meteoric celebrity .
Last night we talked as the sun set ,on the bow,drinking in the phenomenon of us being in this incredible place,How did we get here? The new waxing moon had appeared,already high and the shifting light revealed this shadowy dimension of topography,a depth of field,like a child's picture book, in differing shades of shadow;at the back-the volcano grand and proportioned,then the dry rolly  hills,and at the forefront, layer of green  palms before the black sand beach. To the west,the sounds of the bustle of village evening activity enfolded us closer.WE felt connected and cozy and very lucky.  We saw fires,big big bon fires aglow scattered about the surrounding hills like the aftermath of a bomb strike without the percussive fear.It was all very beautiful  .
   WE must explore!We don't need to have the rally to escort,to be our camp councilor! WE can forge forth-we want to hike,to climb!To let legs live land!Indonesian land!    We plotted our days adventure. We would get up early,pack lunch,bug spray,sunscreen,all that,etc. We would walk through town,and out,we would find a path! We are intrepid!   
To follow up for a second on the previous email ,sent yesterday. I must add that if our dugout man had not come and escorted us to this fine spot to anchor,we would indeed have found our way.We have done and we will do. And,for the perspective of team work,and to hasten to not belittle myself,I will describe the tables turned. I am referring to my intelligence in the navigation,computer- t-o life and compare ;in turn,an illustration of what I can do, what I do know.ie: Banana bread. I can make it. This morning while I made the rice salad ,David made the Banana Bread. He really doesn't know much in the arena of baking,like where the ingredients are and that one mixes dry ingreds together separately from the wet. So,there we go,we are both humbled in this ship of dissolving job delineations.

OK,so,back to the beach landing. It was crazy and amusing. Our first greeters became our posse,boys boys boys! Little boys initially,as they are the ones out hunting for creatures in the low tide,they are exuberant ,curious,bright and willing to help.We all had a big chain gang chant as about ten of them helped heave the dingy as far up the muddy sinky sand as possible.Then with my camera out and reminiscent of India,the rabble rousers flocked in front of the lens. Again,boys big screen hogs.  It was fun teasing them in English,as they mimicked my words.  To Mr Handsome -who vain ,was vainly in beg- to let his face be my perpetual muse,Id say,How will you ever find a wife worthy for your handsome face?? It went both ways,I can assure you, That line that boys in a herd can cross did not pass me,in group shots I had my butt slapped,they kept asking for handouts. One adult man,of dubious character,all friendly shook our hands,asked David if he wanted his small black plastic bracelet,David declined,he turned to me,I accepted,why not?Id come prepared with freebies.He pointed to a decoy bracelet I wore just in case,and I said,you want?Oh yes! The posse watching and noting and then,this is the shady bit,he gave me a weird hand shake where he pressed his one  finger into my palm with lot of pressure. It took a split second but it was creepy- and we were friends.I wondered whose side I was now on??   
We continued walking on the dirt road through the small town,scattered houses,a few stores with cigs and candy-on with a strong entourage  -the kids,still mostly boys with only a  few shy girls   hanging back. I tried to get pictures of the girls but those hoi polloi boys were in-my-face!...I found my true personality totally rising far above my kind nice Canadian- rep. persona. Which never lasts anyway...I was bossing the boys to," get back "! When they touched me,my back I turned and said Don't Touch Me! Its like the teacher who divides the class,some like ,some hate...I will never know    . Then we walked,still focused on our mission to walk hike,explore. We had some school stuff-yes,Olivia,many of your coloured pencils-to take to the school.We did manage to get them to take us to the 2 schools,however,and duh-there was no school today.   .haven't these Muslims heard that Ramadan is over?Apparently,they missed the sign of the moon as I read the new moon after the Islam calenders 9th month and 29/30 days is the completion ,however,last night at 4:30am the beautiful sounds of singing were audible within the acoustical Bay ..

We never found the teacher and left the stuff with a cluck of cheery woman.All the kids,about 30 surrounding the presentation.The Mum cave me a hand shake,then kisses on cheeks. I was really hoping to give the girls a parcel of cosmetics that Magali had given us over a year ago.I also have a ton of stickers from the dollar store at home.How?How can I give them out in that swarm?The worst part,and why I felt mixed was that the boys new I was "holding" and it bugged them .We bought them all gum(date on huge plastic container is passed due) and ,as we aborted our trek and waded back to our dingy-that we didn't trust to the rising tide despite a small anchor,the ingrates actually splashed me ,with guffaws and slaps to one another as they skittered helternskelter."Oh is that nice?!" ,Do you believe I scolded saying," Is that Indonesia to Canada?!" ,and I confess to doing what I soo hate,I shook my head! In any language that is sooo bad- teacher,grumpy retiree,ahhhhhhh But,seriously,brats!.....Harmless brats.
Back aboard,hot and a little disappointed,word is out and now,we greet on a regular shift the dugout brigade of floating askers. WE have a boat load of bananas now...goodie,more bread.No fish offered . Constant chants,"Mistah!Mistah!" I better go help...David says its like halloween,and its true he is shelling out! WE have given out much fishing line and hooks,Tshirts and our huge endless supply of wrteched gum.    In regard to the identity here,they are essentially sweet,poor in worldy goods,simple in the precious child like way of not being plagued,as we are in Toronto,of self conciousness,the ever present "Big Brother" judger always looking upon us.     The lonely planet says this is "the murder island",in reference to the warring tribes-naturally religion based;Christian vs Muslim. I didn't feel it but I did note the separation between the woman and girls and the men and then the boys.WE noticed some shiny moped driving slick young men who avoided eye  contact with us-again,same the world over. I rest my case,it always comes down to hormones;venus,Mars..its that simple..
New plan,to keep evolving,is that as I tred water,which keeps the other side of my brain alert and David will have his," get to know the boat from a male perspective "seminar.Yesterday ,we began with"The batteries" Amps,etc....Cant wait.If the trick or treaters beat it...Getting too agggressive..
Miss you,forward to anyone who can/wants  read it all,Love Peg

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Fwd: First Sublime anchorage

Sent from my iPad

Begin forwarded message:

From: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>
Date: August 22, 2012 12:54:44 PM GMT+08:00
To: Joe  Aziz <joeaziz787@gmail.com>, Joe  Aziz <joeaziz787@gmail.com>, Jeremy <hilljeremy8@gmail.com>, joe bro  <joeaziz@dophes.com>, Joey Hill <joeyhill1@gmail.com>, Mary Fraleigh <mfraleigh5420@rogers.com>, Olivia Hill <olivia.katherine.hill@gmail.com>, philippa  <p.janehill@gmail.com>, Sue  Aziz <azizsue@gmail.com>, pats  <paziz@rogers.blackberry.net>, Josef Kates <josefkates@gmail.com>, peg  <peghill6@gmail.com>, anne  <aoh@rogers.com>, georgia  <grennick@airdberlis.com>, jenniferbrown  <brown_jennifer@rogers.com>, Leslie  <hobbsleslie@hotmail.com>, Squeak  <antoinette.ridout@gmail.com>
Cc: Margaret Hill <margaretgsmith@sympatico.ca>, Stephen Smith <stephensmith1@sympatico.ca>, John Hill <jvhill@rogers.com>
Subject: First Sublime anchorage
Reply-To: "David Hill" <rhythmhill@gmn-usa.com>

Hi,we are out of internet range,so I thought Id let you know,our first Duo sailing passage is complete.
WE rest at ancor  ;very still very serene  near the remote village of Savu on the island of Andonara ,which is just beside Flores,which is east of Bali..  WE expected to see at least one other yaucht from the rally,as we move towards catching up to them,but we were the only big shiney vessel around. .Its taken us ages to get it all strait;where we are going..A fellow sailor printed out the Pilot for PNG and SE Asia and his hard drive of Lonley Planet info.             Its daunting,no,challenging  for David ,daunting is for me..David is  used to having a rt hand person as second mate ,being first,Joey,Olivia,Eli,or John ,Kelly - never me- who feeds him information from grib files (current weather updates) or the GPS. Yesterday when we got here, and ready to settle ,after 24 hours of sailing(2 nite shifts,me from 8pm-midnight,D from 12 to 6am!-he was watching a movie and let me sleep)  He was  tense and uptight as the light is waning and he wants me to drive but im not doing it with the reflexes of an olympic volley ball playe  r(im actually doing just fine with only one engine on,btw)  and then later,on second try to find a hold in this either deep or coral head ridden bottom,Im up on the roof looking at the bottom,he at the wheel when he shouts for me to go and look on the computor to see where the openCPN,which is electronic charts, Im actually asking him how to even explain what they are as I write...!(The charts show the most acurate topography,depth,contour lines..).I was supposed to match what I saw in real life to what I saw on the computer screen. This,I told him was not going to happen,just then a guardian angel appeared ,a man in a dug out,he motioned with his hand in  a circular wave like a crawl stroke towards the palm tree lined beach. We followed,us in our elephantine hotshot catamaran. I felt audacius,brazen in my bathingsuit,towering over him like a superior race.I hate that and in truth,I was admiring his hotshot J-stroke and the way he  rhythmically kicked the water inside his dugout to splash out. How kind of him,how sweet.I let out the anchor and all the 200 ft of chain for 60 feet depth.(-this too I had to concur with skipper just now(!) We were set,secure. Then I think,what can I give our guide? He is soon obviously expectant.He stands in the dug out,holding on to our hull. He has the ubiquitous dark sun sea lines face and a genuine smile. We have not had the experience of meeting these primitive village kind since the San Blas island back on the Carribbean side. WE gave him our smallest bill,50,000 rupia,which is 5 bucks .Can you imagine the wad I had to pay the gold shop for a 75$ ring??    However,he stayed,yup..hmm,OK He pointed to our fishing rod-AH!! Fishing line,Oh,sorry we dont have any spare,we have hooks! We gave him a hook,yes a hook,we travel light here ...we are seriously running out of extra anything...He took his thumb and finger and pulled at the middle of his T shirt,raising his eyebrows with happy hope. Yes! T shirts,I begged David to get rid of the nasty stained once white T he'd had on all day.He took it off and handed it to the man.Yuck,and... he waited.Then he left.Then another dug out brought 2 very expectant boys,how cute.They asked for books.Oh boy,it was becoming clear,the cruisers before us had spoiled these people! OK,am I jaded?Does this seem harsh? It is awkward,especially that we dont have much,we have some stickers and plastic braclets but darn if I could find them...The San Blas tribe had fish,Molas,beads to sell or trade. These guys keep coming with nothing. Yes,its apparent they really dont HAVE  anything. However,a coconut,a bunch of bananas is all we want. It keeps trade alive and dignity,right? This am a lovely young Dad and his son came out with a big long dug out ,empty but for a net.WE gave him a pair of boxer shorts and asked for fish?coconut? Im going to hunt down the stuff I do have now.
This sure is quiet! I think this is how everyone back home thinks we live.Quiet serene..We realised after K and J left that accept for the odd nite off the boat,we havent-despite what some may think-had a holiday with just us.Maybe this will help our ever challenged,but always committed  relationship. David and I are going to swim to the reef after lunch.How bizarre,we NEVER do that kind of thing together,2 years now! We hike but never swim together,a whole new chapter.
We are very excited to be here in Indonesia.We look forward to meeting up when or where with the boats of the rally,now dispersed about..
Highlights we missed in PNG-the worlds only poisinous bird"pitohui", largest butterfly,"Queen Alexandrea Birdwing" , Largest bat,the "Bismark flying fox ' Which,we didnt see alive BUT**** John ATE one for dinner whole, like a fish,head intact on the plate -... and the worlds  longest lizard Salvador monitor(4.75 metres )  Through the Torres strait we missed the largest meanest croc.,the 4.5/ 500 kg saltwater crocodile..which,I do believe is also present not too far from here and the regions share the longest snake,the reticulated python,often over 6.2m and the longest venomous snake,the cobra or hamadryad Here,the Indonesian giant stickinsect and also- worlds longest"The Flower Raffesia" at91cm,and it smells like rotting flesh What we will definatley see on the island of the name ;The Konodo Dragon,really a giant monitor lizard-google that dude.....Better go too much WORD for this satellite missive.
We will look forward to news from home,missing you all tons.We will be leaving tomorrow morning and may have internet.You can copy us on the ocens and gmail accounts-as long as you keep pictures and attachment s for gamil only.
Love Peg

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Yu oraet?

I oraet,tanku tumas.
This is Bislama,the pidgin language spoken here on on Vanuatu,no other country has as many languages per capita. I love it. " Mi stop lukaot " means,I'm looking for...., " Tankyu tumas" is,Thank you very much.
We are moored by a lovey resort by the island of Aore,across from Vanuatus largest island,Espiritu Santo.
This morning David and I took Olivia to the airport,first John dropped us at the ferry dock,then we took the ferry across to the town of Luganville,then a taxi to the tiny airport.We were quite early. At a small open air " deli" ,we had a grapefruit,served whole,a bunch of peanuts that came on the branches and taste like peas- so good. David and Olivia had fried eggs,bread and a piece of bacon. We waited,took pictures,and then watched as she boarded the tiny plane to Port Vila where her international connection would get her back to Auckland sometime tonight.There she has a shuttle to take her back to the north shore and her home-stay in the pleasant Devonport ...and- school starts first thing in the morning.

We walked back to town,slowly questioning all our parental decisions and feeling greatly sad. The day before in fact I was surprised by an ambush of emotions when I was in town. There are tourists from Australia and New Zealand but,very few sailors -as we are late in the season . I had wandered in to a building selling local crafts. Woman in the ubiquitous,however,not flattering, "Mother Hubbard "dresses were minding their tables . I liked their baskets,many varieties from the different islands. One of woman ,asking me where I was from and I explained were we're all the way from Canada- she was forlorn when I said we are still far from home despite the two years away so- far. A tall woman on my left-who frankly looked ridiculous in the dress,a pant suit or fitted gaberdine dress would have been much more becoming- she was clucking a tsk,tsk,tsk and the power of blooming circle of simple woman living, " home" and close to family,got to me deeply and unfettered,I yelped,"Well,you're going to make me cry! "...you know what always follows that!
I was quite embarrassed as I forced her to hug me longer that I think she felt necessary....anyway,she pulled from me,I know it! OH! How embarrassing....I did the ,"Oh it's great! its fine! ",back peddle ....
So now, we are doing what we always do the day before we leave- uncovering problems and having accidents. This time,it's,the Starboard head:it's clogged and it's a problem ,something horrid must be down there.The cockpit sinks drain is bloating...: hold up! John just succeeded in curing that one. Just before a break for a swim and a shower,John took kelly up to the bow in the dingy to unhinge something and accidentally knifed the dingy-( all of us even the skipper said gratefully,John,Im just glad it was you and not me!) There was some drama and a wee panic,so so so toned down when its not family !! We located the patch kit,never yet used and the new glue David forgot he was sharp enough to buy and they too to the beach which is very close. The patch will take 24 hours to dry . We then had a date for departure,2:30 Monday. Kelly is on her forth ..fifth kayak journey with Gerry cans filled with fresh water. Who needs a dingy.......
This is our biggest concern,feeding rhythm her food and water ; Out at sea we make water ,Joeys department of expertise, the water maker -reverse osmosis. When we can we harvest it from port we do,usually beside a dock via hose. Same goes for diesel fuel .
Not here,no no,it's too rough to belly up to the dilapidated pier . David and I perused the sight today on the way back from the airport. There,we witnessed groups of men,one building a fire under a grill,next to them a group hanging large legs of cow,with hooves held high onto tree branches to bleed out ,pieces pulled from a wheel barrow lined with big green leaves.I failed to capture this classic scene for a few reasons ,a directorial failure,the photography illusive ; first it was the insipid lighting,the iphone camera only,the "male cool "-and black sharpy line drawn from them to us,clearly separating our annoying and inquisitive invasive appearance from their Sunday cow curing post church ritual. Vanuatu is lovely,the people mostly too,however,we expected unprecedented happiness and out of this world friendliness and we just haven't been here long enough to feel it fully.
We are now on a push to get past PNG ( Papua New Guinea, Port Moresby) which is1200 nm,about the same distance we've come since NZ.
Last night we had our last wine dinner before our passage detox diet of bland food and horizontal days...sometimes I can initiate a dance on the deck and get a huge injection of endorphins and a blister...John made a mass of beef stew which is ready in containers in the fridge.
Seas calm today,The rest of the crew is in town checking out and filling the fuel Gerry cams.I must do the kayak water run.

So,I'm sad right now. Missing my kids.Summer in Canada;
Joey and Jeremy in Toronto,Philippa in Miami.
Miss Mum and Dad et al!!!!!!!!
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Launch Procedure

Launch Procedure
Just back from possibly my last morning walk on Takapuna Beach.
Sitting,chilly but pleased in the stylish worldly ," Little and Friday" cafe loaded with baked delights far to precious and threatening for me to consider buying/eating . Like being in a gorgeous gallery with the option to buy priceless paintings.Im finished my second slightly unsatisfying " long black" coffee( just too damn small )
And I am engaged in my perpetual inner conflict,this debate focusing on the scene back aboard Rhythm; new darling crew; Kelly and John . David who doesn't check his phone for texts ( so,does he want me to hurry back?!) and who endured an evening with me- being reactive,feeding the angry wolf ( some native American elder used this symbol and Rick Hanson explains it as being our innate reaction to a feeling of being threatened )

I've been listening to Rick Hanson on sounds true ,about the relation between the mind the brain and specifically the effect that meditating has on our happiness.Just from my own experience recently with doing a three week detox ,I can also see the very powerful effect on mood and mind when tweaking the food and drink and generally taking mindful care of oneself .Meditating,exercising and now I realize,having a sense of being in a safe place; meaning,non threatening,a place that encourages creative freedom of expression- room to move. Rewind to witness the big picture,the experience of being on this journey aboard Rhythm. Just the present shift in the dynamics with Olivia leaving ,John and Kelly arriving,David back from his trip home and both of us back from our reunion in San Fran.Then there is the small detail of all of us preparing for our departure,the launch procedure.All to be a witness to,to be mindful of a shift.
The inner conflict has the ultimate intention for me to find a place of balance,full spectrum health and that lifelong and agonizing longing for meritorious belonging..( being worthy of love ) To do the right thing,to do what I should do ,to be a good girl.Checking in,does this feel right to me?Is it to be approved of by those I live with!?
So,this morning,the two sides: am I being irresponsible; bad for taking off on a walk before anyone stirred,then sneaking in here,a coffee shop to write? Shouldn't I be back there making breakfast,writing lists,managing Kelly and the ships stores,lists ,lists....Or; is this perfectly respectable; good,to take some time and find a space to write down words to express thoughts so jumbled and caught in my own minds trap?
The thought of being on the boat right now gives me an anxious pain in the gut.As often on both this sailing journey,and my life's journey,I want to run,to escape,to be alone..fancifully to be free to be liberated from the binds of managing my reactions to the vibes of those I live with.

Man,oh man,they are playing The Beatles off the hook here,initially it felt hip,in cohesive company with the tides of customers flowing in and out ,now it catalyses a mixed bag of memories and feelings ..
I feel like the proverbial expat. in Paris,sitting in a corner with that spacial awareness of the stage flowing around me;music,voices ,smells:perfume,fuel,a hot pie that retrieved a St Clements meat pie -day memory( disturbing) ..more perfume,cool air from outside ,from above and behind me landing on the back of my neck-warmth from a portable space heater. Visually the styles and faces depict a NewZealand that has passed me by. I haven't had a very rich cultural experience,sticking close to our marina home and venturing out daily on one of two directions; the beach or the Devonport hill.There I see the deep intense greens,the powerful blue,the colorful flowers,hear the birds and feel the clean fresh air. And never at rest,my inner conflict debates.It is at its most benign usually on these daily walks,therefore the imminent realization that I will soon be on a boat sailing in the middle of the blue with my skipper and husband and a crew couple I highly respect and enjoy ,leaves me on another of many edges. At this edge,I feel excited,vulnerable,overwhelmed, threatened and anticipatory.

I'd better get back



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John we feel your pain. Viaduct marina NZ,the morning after a dare

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Begin forwarded message:

From: David Hill <dhill057@gmail.com>
Date: March 15, 2012 8:43:54 PM GMT+13:00
To: peghill6@gmail.com
Subject: PC260006

PC260006

 

Fwd: Phillimermaid in NZ

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Begin forwarded message:

From: David Hill <dhill057@gmail.com>
Date: March 15, 2012 8:46:13 PM GMT+13:00
To: peghill6@gmail.com
Subject: Phillimermaid

PC270027

 

Asteroid we misss you 2010

In Rangiroa

Brooke and The Bottle 2011

Statue in Cartagena 2011

Wendy,statuesque in Caragena 2011

Joey and a bloody Tuna 2011

Beyond with John and Wendy 2011

San Blas Islands .I'm on kayak taking the photo of Rhythms crew welcoming Beyond after an uncomfortable passage

Skipper and First Mate 2011

US Dolla??

Olivia at the Cartagena Film Festival

Joey ,an early morning rescue

MacKinnon Pass 2012

Milford Track Feb 2012

Jennifer and I by Sutherland Falls

From my journal I wrote," ...the trees were dripping with slimy green moss,as I walked and longed for my camera,I tried to form words into descriptions that could possibly capture the beauty-water everywhere and all the shades of green was the brightest theme-and living walls covered in moss with vivacious healthy perfectly formed ferns sticking out with joyous?keen?perky,yes perky postures every5-10 steps,again I LONGED for my camera,there were innumerable photo opportunities . Everything was so insanely gorgeous,so charged!...flowing ,flowing ,moving....it was so alive so alive to every sense,the sound,the feel,the sight of water spurting out of the earth beneath my feet to the sides of me- from the walls,the streams,the sky,rivers,bridges......smell that water.....

Rhythm in Cartagena

Milford Track

Milford Track
Jennifer
After two weeks of adjustments here at Bayswater,completing Olivias Student visa,with chest x-rays and all,tea at the school, I began to really get excited about Jen coming and our next tramp! I felt confident with the idea of packing and relaxed into the anticipation.
Everything seems so so easy with three of us aboard. We all miss Joey and his provocative -pizazz ,but it is an interesting time. Change,oh the pontificating I could fill these pages with on that concept ,it's like the element of time,it is organic and happening always.To be present...oh,the cure!! I feel like this pause here in NZ is like an intense "retreat" in itself. We have no MISSION,it will soon be right in front of our noses but at the present moment and over the last few weeks,this abrupt change- one kid,no job,no destination...just us,our 27 year old marriage,our last high school age child,and... our ripening ages... Really has our patterns challenged. How do we move through this new atmosphere? Everything seems electrified and up for assessments. If you really are reading this and I'm not sure if anyone does,I'm sure you can read: too much time to think....Yes,unlike my Dad,my parents,they are in a vivacious city,with spunk and a very infectious and healthy upbeat energy....Well,our time will come but for now,I'm alone on the boat on a saturday and I am finally writing a few wee tidbits for blog
The MIlford!
Yes! Jennifer arrived,it was grand to see her,at the airport she arrived with jumbo planes filled with contaminated passengers,NewZealand is over the top in their inspections and customs is very strict.By the time she emerged,she was exhausted...over the next few days we walked to break in her world traveled hiking boots.We lunched at the charming Devonport,one of many many beachside towns all over NZ. She got blisters. WE nursed the blisters,planned our packing and food and had a little cocktail party the night before we flew out to Queenstown. We booked a backpackers that nite and on our way back. WE walked with the trepidation of wrong weather wrong bus fears and ate out at one of many outside touristy pretty inviting..expensive restaurants. Queenstown is a ski town and I had a deep memory resurrected from when we were there with Jeremy and Philippa in 1988down at the lake...We couldn't stop thinking about the rain,rain rain..it was the word associated with the Milford track,it's true,it rains ALOT....however,to me,in retrospect,that is IT,it is all about WATER.It is a force ,an energy from the earth and ski and sea,"it is life giving,elemental" , isn't that Buffy St Marie?? There are two main waterfalls both named after the two pals,MacKay and Sutherland. There is a route that the mauris used to use to come inlabpnd to collect greenstone. In 1880 the Europeans cut a pass to the falls.Now 14,000 people hike it every year. Think,Machu Picchu now must restrict visitors to 2500 people per day !
In 1908 a poet,Blanche Baughan said of the track,it's , " the finest walk in the world".
Jennifer and I really loved it.Jen kept saying,against all rules,"it's perfect". She is right.The otherworldly beauty,with this rushing water magic energy that juxtaposed the atmosphere of sweet peace was transcendent. We loved the forty people we meandered along with together we ;stayed in the huts ,cooked,listened to the Park Rangers nightly talks snored and stopped to feel the majesty of it all together..some took zillions of pictures,not me.I had Davids camera which I protected with rain proof care,to find out that it's so waterproof as to actual take pics fully submerged!!! Oh brother,just look on line and you can see,it looks- just like that!!!
More Later

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South Island Golden Bay,Takaka

South Island Golden Bay,Takaka
North Island Takapuna

Then,came January and my highly anticipated trip to Golden Bay,Takaka and specifically,Anahata Yoga Retreat. I was nervous but very very hopeful that this experience could restore the me in me.
It delivered on all fronts; outrageously beautiful,as I ascended in a hitch hiked car I was awash with awe. The dirt road zigzagged up to the top where the retreat in little buildings lay nestled. Many sheep cows and lots if wild horses scattered on the green grass with big parrot like birds called Kakariki cruising high.
On either side of Anahata was the Golden Bay,on one side was the Abel Tasman National Park . It was striking and as I could breathe deep into the beauty,it felt like a ten course meal. " Anahata "is the name for heart Chakra and my heart began to feel like it was home again. It is really an ashram..yoga as a science,as a way to live. Originally ashrams were religious,today,many are a spiritual hermitage. Anahata,run by Swami Muktidharma and his wife,Swami Karma Karuna is not a religious ashram. I did three retreats,The Celebration of Sound,The Science of Life Yoga and Ayurveda and ,Explore Yourself Yogic Lifestyle Retreat.
I loved all the Karma Yogies and my fellow explorers...We ate heaps( Kiwi word) of delectable veggie food,chanted,did yoga,meditation and Karma Yoga.
Karma Yoga was fascinating to me:Karma is action,Karma Yoga is action with a meditative awareness.The aim,just to remind myself,is to combine the qualities of efficiency,renunciation,equanimity,egolessness and duty,into one action,one thought.
It's incredible to recall how we as a family do our chores together. It's always about doing the job FAST,with the least effort and if anything goes wrong it's who to blame? How sad when I experienced working with others,often taking orders that I would normally argue about,having to on a number of occasions,do the job over again and to realize,how much simple joy can be found when we lt go of the competition and the outcome.
I met some fabulous people,some I hope to continue to connect with.
A sailing friend,Pete Hall had just completed his circumnavigation and I knew he lived in Golden Bay. Just before I left I Takaka,13 km down the mountain from Anahata.I met up with him at his sisters gallery. I got another overwhelming showing of NewZealand beauty and tenacity. Petes property,with thousand year old trees is so enchanting and beautiful,a house he built himself with dead trees from the land...soooo cool,and apparently with a Canadian portable sawmill!!! He had a generator that created so much power he didn't know what to do with it all...I noticed the large ol gal porcelain bath tub outside,which got me counting .It's been since Nov.2010 since Ive been in a hot tub! No breaking records,but I did gorge on ruby plump plums in a healthy orchard of fruit trees....
David,is on his way down as I write. It is March9 and Ive still got some other stories to tell,briefly.....
I stayed a month and I hope to remember and live what I learned there;the practices,the capacity for an open heart however vulnerable,the ability to cultivate compassion and the trust in life .How I can love love so many people...
Back home,to Rhythm,on the North Shore and
Olivia attending Takapuna Grammar.....
Bayswater Marina and amongst our neighbors we love,Don Quixote(Americans,now citizens of NZ,Gromit( Canadian),Casulu(Brazilians,now citizens of NZ)

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Aotearoa

Aotearoa
New Zealand
Auckland," City of Sails

I've started many paragraphs here in NewZealand as a beginning for an overdue blog entry.Over the last week the awareness of time has shocked me,I'm shocked that we have been here for four months,I am shocked that the dentist enlightened me,we do not have the time left here to complete my implant/ crown dreaded procedure....!!! We've discussed a lot about June,the month we plan on leaving this island of the long white cloud and the keen cool interesting young adults who want to join us for the journey to Fiji.Where will we go after that?What do we need to do to make sure Rhythm is ready like a debutant? Will Olivia be launched and confident to stay here until her school year is completed? Will we have explored and experienced these beautiful islands with contented hearts?

What have we experienced?

We loved staying at the hot spot Viaduct Basin Marina downtown Auckland when we first arrived from Opua. Thats north of here,where we checked into the country after six harried days at sea from Fiji.
When Philippa and then Jeremy with Kate arrived before Christmas,David had already been back to Toronto for a month and Olivia and I had found two schools to choose between for the February start.I had also succeeded in the daunting task of choosing and preparing for the preXmas " tramp" the 7 of us would experience together. We had reservation for Christmas eve,the night we would return and an invitation to share Christmas with our new friends,the Romaros at their home on the north shore. We had Kelly Cathcart and her partner,John coming up from south island travels and adventures and Wendy Lyons to celebrate with us when we returned.
The tramp was a highlight,we did the Northern Tongariro Circuit ,stayed in huts four nights and experienced the very typical weather personality here,variable daily- we had hail and rain and cold parts of the first two days,sun and warmth for the last. Philippa had blisters from new boots that were so bad she wore bare feet over the black volcanic stones,as we brushed past" mT Doom ",partially visible,partially cloudy and ominous. I just LOVE the memory of that comfortable,scenic,precious family jaunt.A very special NewZealand souvenir.
Too bad the now infamous horrid summer weather kept us prisoners ,docked with hatches closed and a sense of panic perpetuating confinement....however,Jeremy and Kate energized and hopped on a daily ferry to the pretty waihiki island where they biked and wined at the local vineyards.Looking back,we were9 crowded aboard but everyone pitched in and we really had fun.Now,Rhythm is eerily quiet,be careful what you wish for.
I miss my Mum!DAD!SIS! BRO! friendsssss
Olivia and Joey had lots of friends,many foreign students they met through our school scouring days. The viaduct was central and I personally walked and began to run again. I enjoyed the newly restored Art Gallery,the Auckland Domain( park) and the liberating feeling of just stepping off Rhythm,no dingy coordinations,crew corral,hand held radios to tote...
Then they left.All separately,first Joey,then Philippa and then on NYday,Jem and Kate. Oh,BooHoo....Very sad to see my babies fly away..Olivia an only child,on a trajectory of more change,exciting and challenging.
Happy NewYear NZ and 2012

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