Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Still in Panama,recovering from Shakira...

last night we joined many other Panamanian Shakira fans in an open air concert that was a FUN inoculation to relieve our symptoms of boat mania.
We have been here for too long,another stretch of boat repairs,provisioning,waiting,lists; a very very tense pressure and focus for our skipper,and therefore,all of us aboard Rhythm.
The heat is cloying,I described to Olivia as we walked together on Sunday,it feels like How it must feel when you are a new born baby: with a warm coating of vertex to protect our body from the amniotic fluid. It astounds me to see Panamanians in JEANS!!!! HOW HOW HOW can they!!???
Aboard,trying to work /not to scream it is like being hungover with hives in an incubator along with your Siamese quadruplet appendages. HOWEVER,we have moved from the shipping lane side,Balboa Yacht Club to the Las Brisas anchorage,much nicer,water a little cleaner,many cruising confreres Majority of the sailing vessels are heading to Galapagos as we are. we still have a desire to sail to Ecador first,park Rhythm for about a week ,bus to Peru,hike the Inca trail to Machu Picchu. I'm waiting for the decision to present itself to me.
Recently I have been hot with the bug about the plastic Pollution.We have seen plastic floating where you can see no land,we see plastic in otherwise pristine desert islands and my most loathed,styrofoam take out containers wedged in mangroves on the sea shore. I just feel sick about it. Initially,way back,I'd expressed to David that I would like, and feel it is important ,to be very conscious of the world,a perspective viewed through the filter of mass media back from my little world of Toronto.Here we see the sky,wake to the sound of the ocean against the thin hull of our home and eyes come to focus with tie dye like patterns of light reflected from sun to sea to a wall inside. We are on it,floating upon a tomb of garbage. It
makes me so sad I could cry. I know how it feels to read vigilantes and Debbie Downers,so how in Gods name am I going to use this ardent emotion ? I have some ideas and would welcome yours,another Blog...and Japan! I just read about the flotsam like a land mass with full houses,cars and bodies in a cruisers website cautioning vessels to, "heads up!"


So,today Im off to attempt to outfit the ship with enough stores to last 40 days!! Yikes,my perspective is this: at the cottage,weekly I would do the shlep to Perrysound,I would spend the day,and return with a ton,just loads of groceries...so it is that times 6?!!!

I've done enough complaining,now hear this,I am aware of the JUMBO ,boundless and immeasurable adventure that is as multilayered as our very human selves. Perspective -learning is the magic carpet we ride.It is hard to see even from a boat,with all that sky and all that sea.
The very key ingredients are the world class characters we meet,the stupendous geographic sights that surprise us and the however arduous lessons of love in commitment for us as a family.



Anyway,

Saturday, April 2, 2011

Day two Panama Canal

Day two Panama Canal
It's 6:30 am and day two has begun.I'm hiding in bunk as I hear the clink of cutlery as Margaret finishes last nights dishes.I should help her shouldn't I .Lastnight She and Trevor were ."on dishes" but we were all totally spent. She, a kind and compassionate Madre,she let her boy/ line handler crash to his port side bunk right after our late dinner. To stay present for a minuet ,we are just now motoring along in Gaton Lake to reach the second half of the locks,three up and three down. I just loved filming almost the entire experience last night with officious bright lights flashing up the dark night like a film set. I got some everlasting worthy footage.To have the Smiths share this has been a real boost for us,I too wish Jeremy and Philippa could also have been here.I really missed their ever ready expressions of enthusiasm ,knowing what a blast they would have had and what a fun dimension they could have added. In preparation we were delivered tires to add to our own fenders to attach to a French sailing vessel whom we shared the lock space with. On the other side is the Pacific Ocean,Balboa,where we'll stay at a marina.The Smiths depart on April2 nd..we look forward to spending time together in the famous city.I look forward to greeting John and Wendy aboard,Beyond and will be very sad to say so- long to Wendy as she flys back to midwifery and grandkids in NZ
To backtrack,beginning with night before last,we stayed at ShelterBay Marina in a very prime dock location,right by the pool.we arrived from Portobello midday and David had reserved two rooms at Marina for the hearty adults/ parents..grownup members of the cast of crew. The" treat "backfired a bit as the balcony looked right at Rhythm! David couldn't relax as the poor guy had gone through so many details ;the multilayered red tape and at the eleventh hour- last minuet green light .. Or not!? Then,after a flimsy meal that we shared with Smiths,enjoyably on the porch,colonial,sultry steamy humid night,we couldn't sleep!! It's hard to get sleep on a comfy solid bed with clean sheets and air-conditioning...I woke hungry at 3 something am and decided to go out the sliding glass doors to the balcony to get on Davids laptop which we'd fought over in wake time. I received two newsy emails from Jennifer and Mary,I just live for good long or just emails from all my precious friends.I can't beg for them because friendship is a two way and there are so often times I just can't technically connect. maryAAnn reminded me,it's been since Feb.since I've blogged.We ll overdue
We have spent the last month in preparation for this day and the Smiths vIsit.We were very anxious about details and last night filming Skipper David dancing through the locks with music vamped by DJ Stephan and the cousins dancing together was really a culmination of even more than a months anticipation.

Smith visit
The Smith family really,I need an entire blog to devote.Margaret; little sister of David, Aunt to look up to and always there ,you join in or kick ass- love to have a like minded woman aboard!! And,ever generous and giving and fun and game! Stephan,a life enthusiast,engaging,participating,gorging on all aspects of the sensual stimulants of the world surrounding us,often reticent,just watching,listening,always present.I love the way Stephan is so magnanimous with every single person of every size shape nationality class,he loves people and wants to open his heart and arms in a bear hug of love.
SanBlas.....last night he cooked up the second half of an18 lb snapper he bought off a Kuna,via dugout in San Blas Islands
San Blas,another blog; stunning national Geographics,the KUNa,such a rich unit of the tapestry. Selling stitched colorful graphic in fabric squares,a very old tradition in the matriarchal society as the woman waited for the men to return from hunts fishing ,they stitched. The water,colour of magic eyes of the sea......The veggie boat- rescued my fear of not enough produce,arrived in " the swimming pool" of the Holandes islands,they pulled up out of the vapors,in a massive dugout ,three guys,mucho fruit and veggies,an old scale,a pad and pencil and Margaret and I jumped aboard to shop- I love it!! We then spent a night anchored in the Lemmon Cays where we participated in a cruisers happy hour on beach at a bar.There was an adorable,however,skanky Scandinavian backpacker with blond dreads selling jewelry,Furry stuff,an ocelot ,a Brazilian dude gave her the pelt,he'd shot the feline for going after his chikens,so what to do? I had no cash,she promised to catch us before we lifted anchor early the next morning.I was surprised she made it,6:30am looking like she had not ended her night,and I bought a pelted bracelet.
Portobello,another blog
Day Two Another Blog


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Thursday, February 24, 2011

Cartagena," The Mother City", " The Fort of the Kingdom"

HOT
I am so very hot.This city is magnetizing as today,the first in many I have remained aboard to tidy,meditate,write. The kids and Jay are in the salt mines,at task with the finale of courses at the air-conditioned wifi cafe.David is out there,checking of boat tasks on his list.David has really reached his stride,getting a little closer in his relationship with Rhythm and her many systems.
we often compare our boat,it's set up design,our way of living within it.We then remind ourselves,many of the cruisers,or,"yachties" that we've met have years of experience and "fiddle faddle "( Trudeau,1970)
We have been here for a week and the city,the promised,"world away " we have been sailing towards,has not disappointed. This is COLUMBIA,I keep having to remind myself. Architecturally alluring,her spirit is dense,rich with life;people living with deep cultural connections and a land seductive in natural resources. To walk into Centro,the old part of the city, within the infamous walls,is infatuating.Every thing,a chair outside a doorway,the hardware and trim and Spanish details is a photo opportunity. I am personally reminded of San Miguel ,Mexico.Each doorway a fortress, a cosmos within. Hustle , bustle ,modern shops and elementary sales :street level coffee,fruit,inexplicable fried treats,sombreros,woven bracelets and bags.Little English.A lot of curiosity.

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Loss

This morning we talked about loss; Jay lost his favorite shirt and one of his own brand: his Fizikel T shirt. I lost my very best blog EVER.Joey has misplaced his wallet .We've long since lost the use of our phones for regular use and all ipods but one are mere shells of a cute and slick design.
Loss and what "person ,place or thing" can we live without? If I made a list a year ago it would look like this; I CAN'T live without:my family,my dog,my girlfriends ,my bike,my running shoes ,my phone,my iPod,my computer,my yoga stuff,my third floor room.
Then,knowing we could only take the lightest of gear my 'let go' list looked like this, I can't live without: my family,at least 3 of them, bathing suits,sunscreen and sunglasses,my iPad,my yoga stuff,iPod,10 lb weights,minimal clothing and shoes for all weather,toiletries,fruit and vegetables,A tutor for the kids,Jay!
Six months from now?
Loss feels like a violation,it feels like an assault,you feel like a helpless victim; out of control.
You get angry,you feel guilty that this,"thing" can cause you to react with such passion ,you want someone to help,tell you what to do,make it better,give you a big hug with one arm and then,with the other,produce a wrapped package with a big red bow that contains the item you have lost,had stolen,got wet .
Life is a balance and therefore,we must have some basic equality on the scales or I think we would feel perpetually gimpy.
It's hard to live in such a all space with others and know certainly or not if your personal needs,things you can't live without, are self centered or just about self care and self growth.

Water,I forgot to mention water,it is damn hot,sizzling here in the noon time harbor of Cartagena,I've just put ice cubes in my water,the sea water all around is despicably filthy and our stores of fresh water is dear,therefore ,I can live with just sitting in a bather,in the shade of our cockpit drinking water .
I look forward to natures clean beauty of the San Blas Islands coming up next.

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Friday, February 18, 2011

Sweet Spot,Passage with Waxing Moon

During a passage at night,I have often had a very interrupted sleep,fearful that I'll sleep to soundly to be woken for my shift.When it is my turn,I stumble -body often gets slammed up against a wall,all mussed up and groggy, I put on the kettle and I gather something warm for the sweet rush of night sea wind,head lamp,glasses,book and iPod -if it's working,which it ain't...I just loved hearing a miriad of podcasts,a voice to accompany and to stimulate me into wakeful alertness. So ,settle with a mug of hot chocolate,up on the white vinyl seat at the helm.Above is a white hard top,but for a square patch just over your head,there it is blue canvas and now,in the balmy south,it is gone ;just sky with flaps of sail and boom and moon and stars white on black. what a marvelous feel ing of freedom,peace,solitude. but for me,I run a narrative ,it's that innate longing to share,express a very sweet experience. It's that," THIS IS IT!!! " Its that,come look come quick,you HAVE to see this,isn't it amazing,wondrous,the flying fish,caught mid flight like a badminton birdie on the bows trampoline,the moon,coming soon to full,who needs the headlamp,check out my shadow!That must be a planet,?,or is it a mast light,?,curious,attentive,responsive,responsible me! Look! In the water,phosphorescence !I sit now,cross legged,and ride this ocean like a meditating bronco rider.It's not so quiet,the sounds,this time,this shift,are comforting;rushing water,quirky groans below,wind -strong and warm against your skin like a loving touch. That's sweet.

Thursday, February 17, 2011

Bonaire Birthday and a Columbian Coffee

MMMM,I just had to mention the coffee I just got served to me,in A ciber cafe,in Cartagena ,Columbia,it delivers,however,yesterday I tried the chocolate,doesn't hold a candle to Grenadas organic mastery.
Already a world away,Bonaire a beautiful island on the north coast of Venezuela is not to ever be forgotten. We celebrated Davids birthday and came away with a beat up windsurfer and fantastic memories. We arrived on a Friday,a very party night in a very euro vibed town .Jay went out,came back a long time later,a kick- start for the spanish worlds ahead.
We were moored,as the reef is delicate and recently protected right near town so for me, the pulse of the tunes entered from the water into the hull and vibed my bunk , it too swam through my port window and gave me a bad case of FOMO( fear of missing out) It had the feel of a cottage vacation spot,however,giant cruise ships brought Dutch tourists not camp canoe trippers
WE utilized a new gelato cafe,LIlys, with free Internet for the kids and Jay to spool off some school.There ,I met a woman and her two gorgeous boys,with Madonna blond hair and those attractive mellifluous accents. She was so cool,blond dreads ,living with Husband practicing perm-farming.A term I'd never known.They were waiting on deed to a farm in Equador,how amazing is that!? She gave me the information I was hunting for; where to take David for a romantic
nuit de n' infant terrible ..damn,I so so wish I'd switched to Spanish in grade 10...here,I can only mumble Buenos dais...ANYWAY...We got the scoop; Sorobon,Lac Bay.World class windsurfing,and a newly run resort with bungalows on the beach.Yes! details-Not so simple and I won't bore you but we did stay the night before David birthday,just the two of us.It was delicious,all the freedom,the land steady all night,the indulgence,the lofty selfishness,the National Geographic Scenery,the vibe of cool like whistler in the 80 s après - ski on the beach...
Morning: David rented 2 windsurfers , kids and Jay taxied over in the morning and we met them at JIve,the shop and restaurant.There,beautiful nubile humans,surf and sleep or sit dreamy eyed,bronzed and chill in the," why can't the world be this way?" serenity .
To describe this bay is hard without a photograph,it for me,was one of the times ,as I swam like a meditation in the clear white sanded water,a STOP RIGHT THERE moment.Growing up with a subscription to National Geographic,I can't help but to see the world through those glossy mesmerizing pages and to measure real sights in comparison . Not just the aesthetic but its ability to connect its natural essence to my own worn and slightly jaded ability to really feel alive and moved in the world. We have warned one another to beware of jaded jargon,like,"Ya, I saw the sunset yesterday",or,"Ya, Ive seen the bird,the mountain,the full moon and stars,the colored fish,birds, the land -ho,the new city on the horizon,..."
We are indeed,blessed. This world, ie the microcosm of my morning kayak- circumnavigation- is a blender of stench and lush and color and new city sights, culture and language ,very old and third world and bird species and flora ...world wide sailing vessels,navy ships painted ominous flat grey,loud choppers overhead -subtext of underworld; metaphor,juxtapose,happening!
Bonaire,yes,also a world class scuba diving mecca.Just before we sailed away, we had to have a last snorkel ,a swim off Klein Bonaire,a small island just behind our mooring, protecting us and surrounded by coral,a national park. J and O saw a turtle and we then,swam up to David who was doing donuts with Rhythm like a Dad waiting in the car as we had one last run.

Tuesday, February 1, 2011

gypsy is in me

I think Im ready to go.
How can we leave this enchanted island with all the rain forests,coastal villages,beaches and jungles that have been described as Eden.With local people as human as anywhere,with all the kindness,graciousness,curiosities,and love. With also suffering sometimes personified in bad choices.A culture ,like so many,that cuts a deep pattern that is difficult to enlighten.Who are " we" to enlighten anyway? The very simple plan that we can all agree on is literacy and education for everyone.We have met some people here who really are " enlightening" in a very basic and heartfelt way. They are,Hands Across The Sea, a Dolphin 46 Catamaran like ours. Aboard,Harriet and T.L work through their own US not for profit organization that provides books for schools in the Caribbean .Through them we not only went on two stellar hikes but also met Alicia,who ,also American,is just finishing her two yr post here with the Peace Corp.She works with blind kids who can't make it to a school.
Inspiring and for them ,frustrating and rewarding.
How can we leave our precious new friends from Norway aboard,Sirius !? Mum Gertrude,daughter Ingaborg and son Thornstein We first met at The Hash.Dad Stein,we have just met upon his return from work in US. It is very hard. I say this life may be simpler but it is intense. At home we make friends more slowly and in chapters. Usually for life! Here we make fast friends and we are aghast to realize ,there may be a good chance we will never meet again!! It is like a microcosm ,I'm just hoping it won't mean we become small minded or shallow .Our intention is ,of course to never frame our space and be mindful of the big big big picture,take that lens up, up and out creating room to belittle the annoyances .
Gypsy- Yes, I feel it already. The desire to just GO!
To hoist the anchor,to adhere to our shifts.To have found this place where a routine is created by the skipper,no significance insinuated here...just the freedom that this timetable can offer.Freedom from too many options,we adore making friends and being social but that too can become a complex web of organizations.
This is the gypsy initiative ,without connections beyond the boat,one is actually more free to be connected to that vast largess that liberates us from our minds constant analysis.Simply,to be present with what is.
Yes yes I could pontificate on and on in debate around in circles.I'll leave that be.

Our hikes were. Insanely gorgeous,one a mountain called Mt Qua Qua on Wednesday,where Jay and Joey went native.....bare
foot....and got sensual , not together...with mud between toes. It was more of the same rain forest jungle mud and rain and green and an aroma -perfume in the air like heavens musk.
We then hiked down the road and onto another path through farmland,note : Grenada is The SPICE ISLAND with cocoa trees,sorrel plantes,nutmeg trees,orange trees...Did you know cinnamon is a tree and it is the bark of that tree that we know to become that comforting spice..
Then we found two of the seven sisters waterfalls with big pools to swim in.
The next hike was basically walking in an enchanted river upstream for about 3 hours with a guide,a stunning man,Wello,a local - authentic extreme . He brought a very long rope.He brought and used a very sharp and big machete.He cut fruit for us to eat. He took care of us. All wise and native and strong.
Today David had to go to court to testify about the theft of our dingy on Friday.Olivia just informed me that he won't be finished till 4pm!!! this is not good considering we were to leave tomorrow morning and he still has the water maker to perfect/fix..
It was a very big Bond like drama.He and Joey and Olivia all accompanied the Coast Guard in a
high speed chase in pursuit of the local boys,one in our dingy and two others in a previously
stolen dingy ( I think)The coast guards were all testosterone and the poor dumb perp.ended up crashed under the big powerful twin 350 hsp(?) Sinking our engine and injuring the thief .Olivia and Joey felt compassion for the boy who is still " not moving in hospital
Our next destination is Bonnaire,one of the Dutch Islands of "The ABCs" which is on the north west coast of Venezuela. We would have stopped in at some of the more remote islands of Venezuela ,however,word is to stay clear of the piracy that currently abounds.
I'm not scared ,but I did think to clears a space in my closet for Olivia in case....